Lock Baker: Skull Carver

What you see here is a carved bronze shifter knob. When I say carved, I mean that literally. I start out with a block of solid bronze billet. The next stage takes about 3 hours using a heavy rotary file. This stage is all about getting the basic shape

10 hours in, the inside has been hollowed out and I have switched to a smaller file setup. After 15 hours the final details are complete the most tedious, such as the skull cracks, teeth detail, and fragile face area. I am now using a file with a cutting head so small it is barely visible. The final piece is polished and acid etched. -L

www.easternfabrications.com/

SNB_2743SNB_2755SNB_2761SNB_2765SNB_2768SNB_2770SNB_2773SNB_2776SNB_2782SNB_2785SNB_2818SNB_2824SNB_2827SNB_2838SNB_2851SNB_2853SNB_2862SNB_2865SNB_2871SNB_2872SNB_2874SNB_2875SNB_2877SNB_2885SNB_2887SNB_2906SNB_2908SNB_2913SNB_2914SNB_2917SNB_2920SNB_2926SNB_2930SNB_2932SNB_2935SNB_2936SNB_2944SNB_2950SNB_2956SNB_3006SNB_3015SNB_3022SNB_3024SNB_3025SNB_3027SNB_3033SNB_3039SNB_3045SNB_3051SNB_3067SNB_3073SNB_3109SNB_3138SNB_3144SNB_3146SNB_3170SNB_3173SNB_3185SNB_3193SNB_3213SNB_3267SNB_3269SNB_3278SNB_3281SNB_3286SNB_3292SNB_3299SNB_3301SNB_3305

Tank fab w/ Lock Baker @ Eastern Fabrications/3

Tips and techniques to mount your tank

Now that you have your fully welded tank, we can move on the all the little details like filler neck, petcock bung, tunnel, and tank mounts. I like to do the tunnel first because you have to see where your tank will sit to determine where the highest and lowest points will be. Continue Reading →

Tank fabrication @ Eastern Fabrications. Pt2

Previously, we made a wooden buck for building our tank, now the fun begins. Select the material you want to use for the tank. Options commonly include steel, aluminum, and copper. Selection depends partially on your skill level. If you are a competent welder, aluminum or copper may be the way to go, due in part because they are softer materials and easier to form, but conversely they are harder to weld. Steel is just the opposite, hard to form, easy to weld. In this series of articles, I am using aluminum. Whichever metal you chose, you want the softest version available. For aluminum, I am using commercially pure, .090 thick sheets, the softest available, and despite the thick gauge, very easy to form. The thicker the material, the more you can sand off later to get it smooth. Copper could be just as thick, but steel much thinner, around .030. Continue Reading →